From Hakata JR, just like Beppu, it's another 2 hour train trip to Nagasaki. The intercity express trains have some very traditionally-inspired classy decor, and are nicely built.
Getting around is a fairly simple affair - Nagasaki has a developed tram system that gets you to the major spots for a flat fare of ¥150.
One of the first places in Japan to allow any foreigners to enter, Nagasaki, as you would have known from modern history, was atomic bombed in World War II by the Allied Forces. Since then, they've rebuilt most of the town and today, it's a thriving city with plenty of foreign influence throughout.
I was planning to make a side boat trip tour to Gunkanjima (more on that later). Unfortunately, had I known about the ferry schedules, I would have arrived earlier as they only had two ferry tours: one departing at 9am (which was already gone) and another later on at 1pm. I decided to join the 1pm tour, but that meant I only had roughly 1.5 hours to get to the (atomic bomb) Peace Park and back before the ferry departs. So I was in a bit of a rush, which meant I didn't really have much time to explore the Peace Park.
Taking the tram to the Peace Park from Nagasaki JR took roughly 20-25mins. I quickly walked around the Peace Park, hoping to take in some of the sights and memorials there.
Lots of school students on field trips, too. Some of them even mistook me for a Korean tourist passerby and one bald-headed kid mimed me whilst I was taking photos. I approached them (not out of annoyance, but just to strike some conversation and to see how they'd react) that I was actually from Australia. Funnily enough, the kid just went "YEAHHHHHH" and proceeded to high-five me, with the other students laughing and wondering what was going on. Funny, them Japanese school kids.
I even had time to go visit the epicenter of the bombing, which has since been converted into a memorial site for the bombing victims.
Unfortunately, I didn't have time to enter the atomic bomb museum. (I would eventually get to visit another atomic bomb museum later on in my trip, but at Hiroshima not Nagasaki) so as soon as time was up, I hurried back to Nagasaki Port, where the boat to Gunkanjima would be departing.
When you sign up for the tour, you're asked to sign a waiver declaration with a set of strict rules. Upon boarding the boat to Gunkanjima, the tour guides give you wearable tags and on the back of them are those rules you signed up to earlier on. One of them (and a very important one) was that you cannot jump over the fences and explore the area yourself. A reasonable request, given what Gunkanjima is and its history.
Gunkanjima, aka. "Battleship Island", was a former coal mine owned by Mitsubishi. At that time (post-World War II), coal was in demand as a major energy source in Japan, so the company employed thousands of workers to work and live onsite. It also boasted the densest population in all of Japan. Living conditions were generally pretty good: along with its concrete housing complexes, there was a market, green spaces to grow plant products, a cinema, educational facilities for the workers' children and hospitals.
Unfortunately, during the '70s, as oil production replaced coal as a means for the energy needs of Japan, Mitsubishi decided to shut down Gunkanjima as a coal mine. People began to leave the island and, by 1974, the island was officially uninhabited. Thus the island and all its buildings began to decay and fall into disarray.
Throughout the island, you can see a lot of the buidlings literally in ruins, some having completely fallen apart over time and rusted heavily. The tour guides will walk you through the island's public access viewing points, explaining the island's history and highlighting some of its major locations (all in Japanese, but there are English brochures available on request when you sign up for the tour). Of course, that's all the tour consists of - as I mentioned earlier, access beyond the fenced path is strictly prohibited (and there are other tour guides around to make sure nobody jumps over). It's all quite a fascinating experience with an interesting history. No wonder it was chosen as an inspiration for Skyfall (the 007 film).
Back at Nagasaki, I didn't end up exploring the town much but I did walk by the port area on my way back to Nagasaki JR.
I wanted a bit of an afternoon snack, since I didn't have much for lunch, so I went to the station's confectionery/omiyage stores and bought some locally-made wagashi. Essentially, they're mochi-based with a red or white bean paste center but all elaborately crafted. Tasted quite good.
Dinner back at Fukuoka was again at the yatais near the canal, where I went last time for the Hakata ramen. This time, though, I wanted to try some of another famous Fukuoka dish: the mentaiko (spicy cod roe). The stall I went to was famous for mentaiko served in various forms: tempura style (wrapped in edible shiso leaves), and stuffed in anchovies then grilled.
I also ordered some grilled steak and some spring vegetables tempura. Seriously great meal (if a little expensive all up) - the hint of spiciness in the mentaiko works really well both stuffed in fish and deep-fried in tempura.
Tomorrow morning's coffee would be nothing special, but judging by the can, I couldn't resist...
Breakfast: Melonpan
Canned coffee of the day: Georgia Tasty
Getting around is a fairly simple affair - Nagasaki has a developed tram system that gets you to the major spots for a flat fare of ¥150.
One of the first places in Japan to allow any foreigners to enter, Nagasaki, as you would have known from modern history, was atomic bombed in World War II by the Allied Forces. Since then, they've rebuilt most of the town and today, it's a thriving city with plenty of foreign influence throughout.
I was planning to make a side boat trip tour to Gunkanjima (more on that later). Unfortunately, had I known about the ferry schedules, I would have arrived earlier as they only had two ferry tours: one departing at 9am (which was already gone) and another later on at 1pm. I decided to join the 1pm tour, but that meant I only had roughly 1.5 hours to get to the (atomic bomb) Peace Park and back before the ferry departs. So I was in a bit of a rush, which meant I didn't really have much time to explore the Peace Park.
Taking the tram to the Peace Park from Nagasaki JR took roughly 20-25mins. I quickly walked around the Peace Park, hoping to take in some of the sights and memorials there.
Lots of school students on field trips, too. Some of them even mistook me for a Korean tourist passerby and one bald-headed kid mimed me whilst I was taking photos. I approached them (not out of annoyance, but just to strike some conversation and to see how they'd react) that I was actually from Australia. Funnily enough, the kid just went "YEAHHHHHH" and proceeded to high-five me, with the other students laughing and wondering what was going on. Funny, them Japanese school kids.
I even had time to go visit the epicenter of the bombing, which has since been converted into a memorial site for the bombing victims.
Unfortunately, I didn't have time to enter the atomic bomb museum. (I would eventually get to visit another atomic bomb museum later on in my trip, but at Hiroshima not Nagasaki) so as soon as time was up, I hurried back to Nagasaki Port, where the boat to Gunkanjima would be departing.
When you sign up for the tour, you're asked to sign a waiver declaration with a set of strict rules. Upon boarding the boat to Gunkanjima, the tour guides give you wearable tags and on the back of them are those rules you signed up to earlier on. One of them (and a very important one) was that you cannot jump over the fences and explore the area yourself. A reasonable request, given what Gunkanjima is and its history.
Gunkanjima, aka. "Battleship Island", was a former coal mine owned by Mitsubishi. At that time (post-World War II), coal was in demand as a major energy source in Japan, so the company employed thousands of workers to work and live onsite. It also boasted the densest population in all of Japan. Living conditions were generally pretty good: along with its concrete housing complexes, there was a market, green spaces to grow plant products, a cinema, educational facilities for the workers' children and hospitals.
Unfortunately, during the '70s, as oil production replaced coal as a means for the energy needs of Japan, Mitsubishi decided to shut down Gunkanjima as a coal mine. People began to leave the island and, by 1974, the island was officially uninhabited. Thus the island and all its buildings began to decay and fall into disarray.
Throughout the island, you can see a lot of the buidlings literally in ruins, some having completely fallen apart over time and rusted heavily. The tour guides will walk you through the island's public access viewing points, explaining the island's history and highlighting some of its major locations (all in Japanese, but there are English brochures available on request when you sign up for the tour). Of course, that's all the tour consists of - as I mentioned earlier, access beyond the fenced path is strictly prohibited (and there are other tour guides around to make sure nobody jumps over). It's all quite a fascinating experience with an interesting history. No wonder it was chosen as an inspiration for Skyfall (the 007 film).
Back at Nagasaki, I didn't end up exploring the town much but I did walk by the port area on my way back to Nagasaki JR.
I wanted a bit of an afternoon snack, since I didn't have much for lunch, so I went to the station's confectionery/omiyage stores and bought some locally-made wagashi. Essentially, they're mochi-based with a red or white bean paste center but all elaborately crafted. Tasted quite good.
Dinner back at Fukuoka was again at the yatais near the canal, where I went last time for the Hakata ramen. This time, though, I wanted to try some of another famous Fukuoka dish: the mentaiko (spicy cod roe). The stall I went to was famous for mentaiko served in various forms: tempura style (wrapped in edible shiso leaves), and stuffed in anchovies then grilled.
I also ordered some grilled steak and some spring vegetables tempura. Seriously great meal (if a little expensive all up) - the hint of spiciness in the mentaiko works really well both stuffed in fish and deep-fried in tempura.
Tomorrow morning's coffee would be nothing special, but judging by the can, I couldn't resist...
Breakfast: Melonpan
Canned coffee of the day: Georgia Tasty
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